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The lively TX ghost town where the dead outnumber the living

An oasis of desert magic...

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Created by Roadtrippers - July 26th 2018

Listen up, because we're about to let you in on a secret...

America's best ghost towns are the ones that aren't really that abandoned. The best ghost towns are the ones that have that special something. You know, that special something that makes locals never wanna leave, and that even draws new people in. Towns like Terlingua, a mostly-abandoned mining town on the edge of Texas. Sure, the dead in the graveyard outnumber the living (its population is about 58), but the town feels alive. Just go down to the porch of the Starlight Theatre and you'll see what I mean.

That special desert magic has kept the town not just alive, but thriving. The establishment of Big Bend National Park around Terlingua has provided the town with curious tourists (and Terlingua provides those curious tourists with things to see and do, awesome places to sleep, and good eats.) Its location near the border also plays a huge role for the town. The first Saturday in November brings in thousands of "chili-heads" for not one, but two chili cook-offs, and right before that, there's a big annual Dia de los Muertos celebration in the cemetery as well. Plus, there's something refreshing about spending time in a town totally devoid of chain restaurants.

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Terlingua, TX

Terlingua and Terlingua the Ghost Town are sort of intermingled, but in a lot of ways, they're kind of different places. The Ghost Town is the real deal... it wasn't made or fixed up to be a tourist trap; these really are the buildings that townspeople had to walk away from when the Chisos Mining Company went bust. But, long before that, it actually was a bustling town with a population of more than 2,000.

It all started in the late 1880s, when cinnabar was discovered by settlers in the area (the cinnabar had been known to Native Americans, who used it in pictographs for its red pigment). In 1899, the post office was established, and by 1903, the population in the whole surrounding area was about 3,000. The mining company was actually decently successful until the 1930s, when cracks in the business began to form. The Chisos Mining Company's owner and director wasn't the greatest with money, and financial setbacks for the company didn't help. Plus, while the mines in the area produced most of the country's quicksilver through the 1930s, falling prices forced the mines to close by 1947.

Today, tourism is the biggest industry in town, fueled by the abandoned mining town and surrounding Big Bend National Park; the quirky personality that the town has developed has definitely added to the appeal of visiting. You can pick up a walking tour brochure in some of the local businesses to get a feel for what Terlingua looked like back in the day.

Chili Pepper

Greater Terlingua extends into Study Butte, and the Chili Pepper Cafe is worth traveling out of the area of the ghost town for. They serve up some of the best Tex-Mex/Chihuahuan cuisine you'll find anywhere, in a charmingly no-frills diner. The hearty-sized portions of dishes like fajitas, chalupas, empanadas, and tamales are best enjoyed on the porch with a cold beer and a side of their special green chile queso. And, pro tip: you won't find a better breakfast in town; it's the perfect way to fill up before a long day of hiking in Big Bend.

La Kiva Restaurant And Bar

Live music, dancing, and drinking are three favorite past times in Texas, and Terlingua is no exception. One place where you can do both is La Kiva. The restaurant and bar is semi-subterranean and boasts dinosaur and rock decor... and a really nice patio, too. The food is great, with lots of attention to detail (housemade Shiner Bock salt on the fries, for example). Whether you're craving pizza, a burger, fried calamari, or a steak, the grub is solid. The drinks are, arguably, even better. There is a solid wine and beer selection, and good margaritas and cocktails, too.

If you're looking for those ghost town vibes, then stop into the Terlingua Cemetery. Once the town's boothill graveyard, it's still actively being used today. The older graves, though simple are hardly plain, with their handmade crosses and stone grottos built up around. These are the final resting places of miners, some of whom probably died on the job, either from accidents in the dangerous conditions of the mine or from the long-term effects of mining poisonous mercury. There was also a deadly outbreak of the flu in the early 20th century that decimated the town. This is where Terlingua's traditional Dia de los Muertos celebration occurs each year. Flowers, streamers, candles, and locals in traditional dress bring the graveyard back to life in a celebration remembering and honoring the dead.

Reminder: Since it's still being used, please be extra respectful when visiting.

Starlight Theatre

The place to be on any given night is the Starlight Theatre. It's a paradox of sorts, and has a reputation as the nicest restaurant in town, and yet is also a popular nightly watering hole for locals. The dinner menu offers dishes like salmon and filet mignon, alongside antelope burgers and "Chicken-Fried Wild Boar with Terlingua Gold Beer Gravy". The one thing you must order, though, is the chili. Terlingua is famous for its chili, and Starlight Theatre's recipe is among the best. They even offer a lovely Sunday brunch.

Every evening, the Starlight Theatre offers live music as well. They take full advantage of the amazing live music scene in Texas and book top-notch artists (and other fun shows and events as well.) Don't be surprised if people get up and start two-steppin', either!

But if you're just looking to drink and chat with the locals, then you need not go any further than The Porch. Every evening, the front porch of the Theatre (and the next-door Holiday Hotel) fills with locals looking to socialize, have a drink, and maybe listen to some music and watch the sun set. As they put it, "Nothing really happens on the porch. That's the way we like it."

Big Bend Holiday Hotel

Terlingua doesn't have any chains, so all of the accommodation options will push you to further immerse yourself in the local vibe. Big Bend Holiday Hotel is an outstanding option. There are lovely rooms and suites (each individually decorated), but they also offer historic houses you can rent that are really unique. For example, the former owners of the Candelilla House ran a Candelilla processing plant; Candelilla is a kind of cactus that was gathered and processed by local women for use in makeup products. They even renovated the Perry Mansion (where the former owner of the Chisos Mining Company lived back in the day) so that visitors can rent out rooms in what was once the nicest house in town.

Terlingua, TX

Sure, it's no Notre Dame... it's even better. Terlingua's historic St. Agnes Church has been a vital gathering place for the community for years. It was supposedly built around 1914, and traveling priests would stop by once a month or so to hold services, perform baptisms, marry couples, and preside over funerals. The simple adobe and wood building is picture-perfect inside, with Mexican-inspired details that speak to the town's culture. Remember, this is a church, so if you visit, be quiet and respectful.

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La Posada Milagro

La Posada Milagro is a recently restored historic guesthouse in the ghost town, so if you're looking for rooms that could be described as "rustic but luxurious", you should book in here. The rooms are clean and bright and come in a variety of sizes and prices. The best part of the property is probably the views.

Onsite you'll find one of the best breakfast spots/coffee shops in town. It's called Espresso... y Poco Mas. They serve organic coffee from Big Bend Roasters in nearby Marfa along with baked goods (the cinnamon rolls are to die for) and simple cafe fare, like breakfast burritos and sandwiches. Everything, from the rotisserie chicken in the chicken salad to the aforementioned cinnamon rolls is homemade and super fresh.

Terlingua, TX

The town's old trading post is now a gift shop and hang out for the locals, as it's along The Porch. Pop inside to browse their wares, which include books and maps and Mexican and Texas-themed souvenirs while you wait for a table at The Starlight.

Retro Rents

One of the quirkiest places to stay in town is Retro Rents, which offers restored vintage RVs. Their offerings are mostly restored Airstreams from between the 1960s and the 1980s, and each is decorated to kitschy, vintage perfection. They all come with patios and fire pits, and there's an outdoor kitchen where you can cook up a feast on the grill. The trailers even have AC and heat! You can walk to the Starlight from here, which is an added bonus.

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Banner Photo Credit: Wikimedia Commons

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