“a thriving piece of classic Americana”
It’s at once a thriving piece of classic Americana — like Stadium Hardware, may it never close — and a Korean diner. Will it be eggs, pancakes and hash browns? Or mandoo and an order of bi bim bob? Actually, that question is surprisingly hard to resolve. I head to Bell’s determined to eat breakfast, and I’m sure I want two eggs over easy, savory, crisp-cooked sausage patties, hash browns and one of their cakey, warm homemade biscuits … until I’m confronted with the possibility of not eating the bi bim bob or the bulgogi, which, by the way, is good either sliced over rice or mixed with tender but toothsome slivered cabbage and other vegetables. The best thing to do is to settle into a booth with a friend — or just someone who will let you mooch off his or her plate — and have a joint Korean-American feast, mixing and matching and trading and talking as the servers pass by with refills on the excellent coffee or more water for your tea. Just make sure you do it before the late-afternoon closing: 4 p.m. weekdays; 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.
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