Chennai Express

Newly moved from the downtown Theater District to the former home of '''Taste of Thai''' on Hertel Avenue, the lion's share of the menu at Chennai Express is made up of vegetarian specialties of South India, including a wide variety of ''dosas'' (crêpes made with rice and lentil flour) stuffed variously with mashed potatoes, lentils, ''paneer'' cheese, and spices, as well as ''uttapams'' (somewhat similar to dosas, but thicker and doughier like pizza crust, with a variety of vegetable toppings baked right into the batter). Also on the menu are a variety of vegetable curries, rice-based dishes, ''pakora'' fritters, and a small selection of meat dishes which consist mostly of familiar North Indian standards such as vindaloo and butter chicken. Those who are familiar with authentic Indian cuisine will be pleased with the flavors at Chennai Express but will probably find the food less spicy than they're used to. Portions are generous and service is extremely friendly, if sometimes slow.