Marco's

Nowadays, chef Marco Sciotino is probably more famous around these parts for helming the growing lineup of '''Marco's Italian Deli''' locations, but this cozy old place on Niagara Street is where it all began in 1988, when he purchased the erstwhile '''Darone's Fargo Grille''' and adorned it with his own name. The restaurant still has the no-frills ambience of a humble neighborhood bar, and fans of hearty, homestyle red-sauce Italian fare won't find anything unexpected on the menu, but don't let that fool you — this is creatively conceived, artfully executed food (even though the bread and herbed olive oil still comes off as a bit of an affectation) served in copious amounts for fair prices. All the usual suspects can be found on the menu — starters of antipasto salad, pasta fagioli, fava beans, and stuffed banana peppers, veal and chicken served in marsala, parmigiana, piccata and florentine styles, pasta dishes such as pomodoro and linguine with clam sauce — but fans of spice might want to try the "Paesano Inferno", a fiery delight of hot Italian fennel sausage and sautéed hot peppers served over penne pasta.