Taste of Siam

Local foodies mourning the closure of Bobby Sysomboune's Hertel Avenue eatery, '''Taste of Thai''', are in for a present surprise if they happen upon its very-much-alive Elmwood sister business — in fact, they might even feel he's outdone himself. In sharp contrast to the stuffy, overly formal atmosphere from which the old place suffered, Taste of Siam's ambience is truly one of its strongest suits, boasting a large, airy two-story dining room bathed in natural light and bedecked with ornate woodwork. In this setting is served — by a waitstaff that's friendly and attentive without being intrusive — a smallish menu that still boasts a gamut of options that are a good deal more innovative. This place serves Thai cuisine that's second on the local stage only to the West Side Bazaar's '''Nine & Night Bistro''' in terms of authenticity, and the menu includes specialties served nowhere else in Buffalo: ''ka nome bang moo'' (an appetizer of toast stuffed with fried seasoned pork, with dipping sauce on the side), ''pud prig sod'' (a spicy stir fry with onions, tomatoes, celery, chili peppers, and your choice of meat), and an impressive range of salads. Service can be slow, but the food is worth it.